Nikko Travel Guide: Driving Irohazaka, Visiting Kegon Falls, and Tasting Yuba
Toshogu Shrine in Nikko – A Must-Visit UNESCO World Heritage Site
Like many visitors travelling by car in Nikko, we also followed the classic route — Toshogu Shrine → Irohazaka Uphill - Akechidaira Ropeway → Kegon Waterfall → Lake Chuzenji - Irohazaka downhill— and this post is about our one-day trip along that path.
Our Nikko adventure began with a delicious yuba (tofu skin) lunch, followed by a quick photo stop at the iconic Shinkyo (Sacred) Bridge. It’s one of the most famous landmarks in Nikko, though we couldn’t stay long due to our tight schedule.
๐ Please check [here] for the hidden gem of Yuba Restaurant in Nikko.
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| a cute souvenir shop near Shinkyo Bridge |
Toshogu Shrine is one of the most important and iconic landmarks in Nikko—and even in Japan. Registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s considered a must-visit spot for anyone travelling to Nikko.
Although a small section was under construction when we visited in May 2025, most of the shrine was open, and we were able to explore the grounds. With its grand buildings, intricate carvings, and vibrant colours, Toshogu represents the peak of Japanese shrine and temple architecture.
History of Toshogu
Toshogu enshrines Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, who unified Japan after the Sengoku period (including the Imjin War). After his death, Ieyasu was deified, and Toshogu was built in his honour.
What makes this shrine especially fascinating is its mix of religious significance, elaborate craftsmanship, and political symbolism. Every detail reflects the power and influence of the Tokugawa shogunate.
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| The largest stone Torii is at the entrance, and the building you see in front is Yomeimon, the main gate of Toshogu. |
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| You can see many lanterns here, and to the right of the tree is Shoro(bell tower), which houses a large bell. |
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| A lantern in the middle, the Shoro (bell town) on the right, and the corridor next to Yomeimon on the left side of the photo. |
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| Climb the 207 steps that lead to Tokugawa leyasu's tomb. |
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| This is the place where Tokugawa leyasu was buried. |
Admission & Audio Guide
- Optional Audio Guide: 500 yen
The audio guide covers 29 different buildings within the Toshogu complex and is available in Japanese, English, and Chinese. If you have time, it’s worth using to fully appreciate the details and history of the site.Highlights of Toshogu Shrine
1.Yomeimon Gate & Nemuri Neko
After passing through Yomeimon, there is a building on the right side where you can find the carving of the Sleeping Cat. Beyond this carving lies the path that leads to the 207 steps up to Tokugawa Ieyasu’s tomb.
The Sleeping Cat symbolises peace, representing how Tokugawa Ieyasu brought stability and calm to the country. Behind the cat, there is a carving of sparrows. Normally, cats and sparrows are natural enemies, but here they appear together, symbolising coexistence between the strong and the weak.
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| Don't miss the "sleeping cat" carving. Passing through this gate leads to the 207 steps up to Tokugawa leyasu's tomb |
2.The Artistry of Toshogu Shrine's Decoration
Another interesting aspect is the elaborate decoration. These are not just traditional old buildings—they are richly colored and carefully detailed, showing the effort and devotion put into each piece. This reflects the Japanese honouring of Tokugawa Ieyasu, and it highlights the artistic value preserved here. The decorations are ornate but not gaudy, giving a sense of refinement and elegance.
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| Yomeimon is the most beautiful and elaborate gate, decorated with gold and countless carvings - mythical creatures such as qilin, dragons, half-dragons, Tang lions, and dragon horses, along with birds like owls, peacocks, and cranes - and it has been designated a National Treasure. |
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| Karamon is also intricately decorated like Yomeimon: only high-ranking officials were allowed to enter through this gate. |
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I knew it was gilded, but on a closer look, you can see that even each piece of gold has detailed carvings.
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| The East Corridor next to Yomeimon has 16 panels, while the West Corridor has 9 panels. These corridors are not merely passageways - they are adorned with carvings. |
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| You can see the detailed eaves underneath the Shoro building. |
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| This is Koro, which stores a traditional drum. Its appearance is similar to the Shoro, but it is simpler in design. |
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| Right after entering and checking the ticket, you can see three storage buildings named Shimojinko, Nakajinko, and Kamijinko. They were used to store costumes, accessories, sedan chairs, and funeral items for events held in October and May. This is Kamijinko, which features carvings of elephants. The elephants appear to be imagined by the artist rather than modelled after real ones. |
Time Needed for a Visit
Exploring Toshogu properly takes at least one hour. Due to time constraints, we skipped the guided tour, which I regret a little, but simply walking through the grounds and admiring the buildings was still a rewarding experience.
Festivals at Toshogu Shrine
Toshogu hosts two major annual festivals that recreate scenes from the Tokugawa era:
- Spring Festival (May 17–18): A samurai procession reenacts Tokugawa Ieyasu’s funeral march, complete with archery demonstrations on horseback.
- Autumn Festival (October 16–17): Celebrates the enshrinement of Ieyasu at Toshogu, featuring over 1,000 participants dressed in historical samurai costumes.
These events are among the best times to visit Toshogu for a deeper cultural experience.
Getting to Toshogu Shrine
- With a Nikko Pass: Take the Tobu Nikko Line to Tobu Nikko Station, then transfer to the World Heritage Sightseeing Bus.
- With a JR Pass: Take the JR line to JR Nikko Station. The two stations (Tobu Nikko and JR Nikko) are only about a 5-minute walk apart, so it doesn’t make much difference which pass you use. Just choose the one that fits your travel plan best
๐ Visiting Toshogu Shrine is an essential part of any Nikko itinerary. Between its magnificent architecture, rich history of Tokugawa Ieyasu, and vibrant seasonal festivals, it’s truly a place where culture, art, and spirituality come together.
Driving the Legendary Irohazaka Road
But for us, the main highlight was something else—driving the legendary Irohazaka road, which had been on my husband’s bucket list as a long-time Initial D fan.
Irohazaka is one of the most famous winding roads in Japan, known for its sharp curves and even featured in the anime Initial D. Just looking at the GPS map makes it obvious why it’s so iconic.
The road actually consists of two separate routes:
- Uphill Route – 20 hairpin turns, two lanes, and no oncoming traffic. Overtaking slower cars is easy here.
We rented a car instead of using the Nikko Pass so we could fully enjoy this experience. The road was even more extreme than I imagined, and my husband couldn’t stop smiling the entire way up.
If you follow this route—Toshogu Shrine → Akechidaira Ropeway → Irohazaka → Kegon Waterfall → Lake Chuzenji → back to Nikko—you will experience the uphill curves of Irohazaka on the way there and the downhill curves on the way back.
Akechidaira Ropeway – Short but Scenic
At the end of the uphill route, we stopped at the Akechidaira Ropeway. Please note that it closes at 3:30 PM, so plan your visit accordingly. Buying a ropeway ticket also gives you free parking. Although the weather was cloudy and chilly during our visit, the ropeway usually offers panoramic views of Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls. There isn’t much else to do at the top besides enjoying the scenery, but it’s worth a quick stop.
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| The view of Kogon waterfall with Lake Chuzenji in the background, as seen from Akechidaira. |
Kegon Waterfall – One of Japan’s Best
Just five minutes away by car is Kegon Waterfall, one of Japan’s most famous waterfalls. Parking costs 500 yen, and you can pay extra for an elevator down to the lower observation deck.
We stayed at the upper viewing area, but even from there, the sight of 97 meters of water plunging from Lake Chuzenji was breathtaking. Around 20,000 years ago, lava from Mount Nantai created both the lake and the waterfall. Although water flow briefly decreased in 2024, it’s now back to normal.
A Taste of Nikko – Yuba Croquette
Near the parking lot, we found food stalls selling snacks and couldn’t resist trying a yuba croquette.
The inside was simple—fluffy mashed potatoes with a small piece of yuba—while the outside was golden, crispy, and not oily. It was soft, moist, and well-seasoned, making it a tasty little treat worth trying in Nikko.
Lake Chuzenji & Mt. Hangetsu Observation Deck
After visiting Kegon Falls, we headed to Lake Chuzenji, hoping to catch the view from the Mt. Hangetsu Observation Deck.
We arrived at the parking lot around 4:30 PM and met a kind elderly couple who warned us that the “gate” would close at 5:00 PM. We assumed they meant the gate between the car park and the Hangetsu observatory, but it turned out the closure was much farther back, near the entrance to Lake Chuzenji by the main town. With so little time left, we couldn’t make it to the Hangetsu Observation Deck. Instead, we stopped by the Lake Chuzenji Observation Deck on our way back. Thankfully, we left just in time and passed through the gate only minutes before it closed.
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| The sign indicates that the road gate closes at 5 pm. I took this photo in the Hangetsu Observation Deck car park and at first thought the gate was between the car park and the observation deck. In fact, it refers to the entry and exit gate to Chuzenji, so we had to leave before it closed at five. |
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| When you can see this torii and the "G7 Nikko" (photo below) sign, it marks the start of Lake Chuzenji. You can see enjoy the view from there, and if you want an even better vantage point, you can continue up to the Hangetsu observation deck or Lake Chuzenji observation deck. |
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| "G7 Nikko" sign on the entrance of Chuzenji Lake |
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| The view of Lake Chuzenji from the observation deck on a gloomy day - it wasn't as blue as we expected because of the weather, but it was still beautiful. |
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| This is the gate for Chuzenji Lake — Chuzenji Gate, on Tochigi Prefectural Route 250 (Google Maps). You must pass through before 5 pm, and for safety reasons, the road is closed to entry from late November to mid-April. |
Things to know if you plan to hike to the top:
- It’s a 15–20 minute walk from the car park.
- The trail is natural with dirt and rocks—not a paved path.
- Wear comfortable, dark-colored shoes (avoid white), especially in wet weather.
- People say the view is amazing, so I’d love to try again on our next trip.
Downhill Irohazaka – Ending on a High Note
The downhill Irohazaka has 28 hairpin turns and only one lane, making it feel even tighter and rougher than the uphill drive. We ended up behind a large vehicle and had to go slow, but with the Initial D soundtrack playing, my husband was still thrilled.
It was my first time on such a famous driving road, and it truly was a fun and unique way to end our day in Nikko. In addition, the Irohazaka downhill route is not available in winter; only the uphill route can be used.
Travel Tips for Nikko by Car
- Rent a car if you want to fully enjoy the Irohazaka drive. - Only Irohazaka uphill is available in winter
- Check closing times for the Akechidaira Ropeway and Lake Chuzenji gates.
- Wear comfortable shoes for nature walks and Hangetsu observation decks.
- Try local food like yuba dishes—the croquette is a must-try!
- If you plan to rent a car from Toyota, check [Here] to learn how you can get up to 20% off your booking
๐Nikko is the perfect mix of cultural sites, scenic nature, and thrilling drives. From Toshogu Shrine to Irohazaka and Kegon Falls, travelling by car gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace and enjoy experiences that public transport can’t always offer.
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