Tokinoniwa Onsen – A Relaxing Stay in Gunma, Japan
I visited Gunma Prefecture with my roommate years ago when I was living in Japan, and that one-night trip left such a warm memory that I’d always wanted to return. This time, we finally made it happen—and staying at Tokinoniwa Onsen in Kusatsu was every bit as wonderful as I remembered.
Introduction about the facility & Service
Room & Private Open-Air Bath
We booked a room with one double bed and a private open-air onsen bath, the perfect size for two adults. The room and bath were designed in a traditional Japanese style, while the reception, dining area, and common spaces had a clean and modern feel.
Our private bath was small, cozy, and extremely refreshing. Since it wasn’t pre-filled, we had to fill it ourselves, which made it feel extra clean. One button fills the tub for 10 minutes, while pressing it twice nearly fills it. If you want to use it immediately, start with the “cold water” button to adjust the temperature.
The bath overlooked a lovely view, and sliding open the wooden window let in a fresh breeze, making it comfortable even with the steam. Shampoo, conditioner, and body wash were conveniently provided in the shower area.
๐ [Here] is the official website of Tokinoniwa
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Traditional Tatami-style hallway
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| The room is spacious enough for two adults |
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| Bathroom with sink and shower area: there is an open-air hot bath next to the shower and a toilet on the right side of the sink |
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| Open-air hot bath before use |
Public Onsen Baths
Tokinoniwa features large, spotless public onsen baths for both men and women. The sides switch daily between 2:30 am and 4:00 am, so you can experience both areas. One side even has an open-air bath with a stunning view—perfect for soaking while enjoying Gunma’s natural beauty.
While the public baths were modern and spacious, they didn’t have quite the same traditional onsen charm. In contrast, the private outdoor baths felt authentic and deeply connected to nature.
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| Entrance of the public bath - check whether it's currently for men or women๐ |
Private Outdoor Baths
The hotel offers three free private outdoor baths. During our stay, we tried two of them. Each bath has a lamp outside—if the light is off, it’s available. We especially loved visiting at night, when the baths were surrounded by flowers in full bloom, making the experience magical.
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| Photo taken from the waiting area: when the light is off, it means the bath is available, and you can enter. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed inside the private bath, so I won't share indoor photos publicly. If you visit, enjoy your bath experience! |
Service & Shuttle Bus
One of the best things about Tokinoniwa Onsen is the free shuttle bus from Karuizawa Station. - We travelled from Tokyo in the morning to catch a shuttle bus. It takes about an hour to get to Karuizawa from Tokyo by train - After exiting the south side, you’ll find the bus stop immediately on the left. I recommend booking your shuttle at the same time as your room (email: tokinoniwa@dormy-hotels.com). Currently, the bus leaves Karuizawa at 1:15 p.m. and returns the next day at 11:10 a.m. after check-out.
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| Free shuttle bus from Karuizawa to Tokinoniwa in Kusatsu Onsen Village |
There’s also a free, no-reservation shuttle to Yubatake, the famous hot spring field in Kusatsu Onsen Village. We decided to walk instead—it took about 15 minutes, but the road was dark and quiet after sunset, so phone flashlights came in handy.
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| Timetable to Yubatake from our accommodation, Tokinoniwa - no booking required |
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| It is walkable to Yubatake from our accommodation; these are the views along the way through quiet, relaxing residential streets |
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| From here, Yubatake view - the lights keep changing colours, mostly blue, purple and yellow. The steam smells like sulphur (rotten egg), and the mix of lights and steam creates a dreamy atmosphere |
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Yumomi is a traditional method of cooling hot spring water by stirring it with a large wooden board, just like the design on the manhole cover. Please check the Yumomi performance details and schedule [here] |
Recommendation for visiting Yubatake
When visiting Yubatake, I recommend taking a short walk to Sainokawara Park. It’s just a 15-minute stroll if you take your time to snap photos. Along the way, you’ll encounter a charming Japanese atmosphere with souvenir shops, local restaurants, and traditional houses.
Sainokawara Park is often a stop for visitors heading to the outdoor hot springs, but even just walking around the park itself—without using the foot spa or onsen—is incredibly relaxing.
Hot spring water flows down from the top of the park, with several foot spa spots along the paths. There’s also a large outdoor onsen where you can experience a traditional Japanese hot spring. If you plan to use the foot spa, remember to bring a small towel. We visited at night, and the park was still beautifully illuminated and peaceful.
If you are interested in an open-air bath in Sainokawara Park, please click [Here]
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| Quiet street view on the way to Sainokawara Park |
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Traditional tower with a red light along the path to Sainokawara Park.
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| This natural water is used for the public hot springs and foot spas in Sainokawara Park |
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| Red Shrine located inside the park |
Meals
Our stay included both dinner and breakfast. Dinner was beautifully presented and very filling, while breakfast was lighter, with a choice of rice or porridge. We chose rice, which came with several tasty side dishes.
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| Kaiseki dinner menu |
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| Appetizer pudding |
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| Mushroom soup |
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| Fresh sashimi plate with squid |
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| Simmered dish |
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| Fried food |
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| Main course barbecue - we chose from two options |
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| Selective side dish - Scallop and ginger rice with soup |
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| Dessert cake |
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| Breakfast was simple - for breakfast, there were two options: rice and porridge. We chose rice, which was served with several side dishes and miso soup. |
A delightful highlight was the complimentary night snack served between 9 p.m. and 11 p.m.—simple soba noodles, nothing extravagant, yet incredibly delicious.
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Night Snack-simple but amazingly good!
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Comparing Tokinoniwa to Hakone Onsen
- Private Bath: At Tokinoniwa, the private bath water is freshly filled just for you, which feels cleaner and more personal. In Hakone, our open-air bath felt more enclosed, warmer but slightly stuffy.
- Atmosphere: Hakone felt quieter and more retreat-like, while Kusatsu’s Yubatake area was lively even at night.
- Service: Both had excellent service, but Tokinoniwa had more young staff, which made communication smoother.
- Meals: Both offered high-quality meals. In Hakone, dinner was served in-room, while at Tokinoniwa, meals were enjoyed in the dining area.
Price & Value
We paid 57,420 yen for one night, including a private open-air bath and two meals, booked through Japanican. For the comfort, service, and overall experience, it was well worth the price.Small Travel Tip – Onsen Towels
Each guest receives two towels:
- A small towel for use inside the bath (traditionally placed on your head).
- A large towel for drying off afterwards.
Bring both with you. Leave the large towel in the basket outside, wipe off excess water with the small towel before stepping out, and then fully dry with the large one.
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| Make sure to use two different-sized towels in this basket correctly. |
Final Thoughts
Tokinoniwa Onsen in Kusatsu, Gunma is the perfect blend of comfort, tradition, and nature. The private baths with scenic views made this trip unforgettable, while the combination of excellent service, delicious meals, and peaceful surroundings left me wanting to return again.
If you’re planning a trip to Gunma’s hot spring region, Tokinoniwa is a wonderful choice for a relaxing onsen stay.
*This review is based on my personal experience, and results may vary for others. Please take it as a friendly reference.
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